Arrivederci Italia

As our adventure in Italy comes to an end; I'm watching a lighting storm over Mount Vesuvius and seeing Naples glow in an erie light across the water from our room. I am reflecting on new friends I have met, cultural differences we have encountered and the most amazing food I have ever eaten. I am thankful for all of it!

Since Emma and I arrived we approached each day without a plan, just going out into the world, checking it out and taking what may come.  The driving was always exciting!  This is a country without any rules for driving.  You turn when you want, park where and when you want, pass on corners, tailgate and honk your horn when the feeling strikes you.  Although it may sound like total chaos (and it is) I never witnessed one accident, one incident of road rage or encountered any hostility behind the wheel.  Funny how it works.  In the states you would probably be beaten up or shot for driving this way, or at least given a ticket by the police.  Should you ever visit here and you want a real thrill, take a drive from Sorrento to Salerno along the Amalfi Coast; the most nerve racking and exciting time I have ever had behind the wheel.. Watch out for the buses!!  They don't stop.

The people are all so friendly and so willing to help.  We have been helped when lost and invited into peoples homes to break bread.  Emma and I were in Sorrento having a cafe outside, we were watching this guy on the street, he seemed to know everyone, laughing, shaking hands, hugging babies, waving at passerby's, all the while people were buying something he had in a bag from him.  When the bag was empty he would leave and then come back with more.  He would smile at us and I finally asked about what he was selling.  He spoke no english but  handed a bag to Emma, it was full of fresh buffalo mozzarella cheese.  I asked him how much, he shook his head no, he would not sell to us. He put the bag on a chair next to us and continued to sell, laugh and talk.  We got up to leave and he handed us the bag, we tried to pay, he shook his head no, he smiled at us and waved goodbye.   Here is a picture of him, he did not give us his name.

I will never forget our good friends Enzo, Maria and Elio at Restaorante DA CARLINO in Peschici.  This truly was the highlight of my trip.  The kindness, friendliness and the most amazing food we ate in all of Italy!!  And they loved the banjo!! The next time I visit Italy this will be my first stop.  Should they ever visit America I will take great joy and honor hosting them and showing them my city.

Things I will miss; Rome, the most beautiful city I have ever been in, Siesta everyday from 2 to 4pm, all stores closed, giant fresh lemons and oranges hanging off trees everywhere you look, fresh fruit and vegetable markets, fresh seafood, stuffed barbecue artichokes sold Sundays on every street corner, the cliffs of the Amafi Coast and much, much more.

 CIAO!!  See you in Spain!

3 Days In Peschici

Peschici, Italy

February 14-19, 2014

After a wild ride from Rome to Peschici/Vestie, Emma and I found our way through narrow streets and alleyways to our airbnb in Peschici.  Located high above on the cliffs of the Adriatic Sea, we found ourselves at a beautiful stone house with a spectacular view of the sea and Peschici.

In the mornings we would sit outside and watch the sunrise as fishermen in small boats pulled in their catch for the day.  Truly a beautiful spot on planet earth.

Like always, Emma and I wandered through the village in search of authentic local cuisine.
As we walked we came upon a local outdoor market where vendors had arranged vibrant  displays of fresh fruits, vegetables, meats and cheeses.  We stopped and bought bags of fruits and vegetables all for only a few euros.

We found our way to, Ristorante DA CARLINO.  We didn't know it at the time, but our lives were about to be changed!  We slowly walked by the ristorante and it seemed empty except for a women sitting at a lone table. She saw us, stood up and walked to the door then waved us inside all while saying, "prego, prego."  She sat us at a table (soon to become our table) and immediately we discovered we did not understand eachother. So, after many tries we came to some understanding she would cook for us whatever she wanted, the fun began and lasted for the next 3 days.

We learned her name was Maria, her husband, Enzo, began by bringing us fresh olives from the region, great red wine and homemade bread.  The courses came slowly and Enzo would say, "paino", take your time.  Every course, from the mussels and clams to the mouth watering pasta dishes were out of this world. Maria would come out and tell us about the dishes and Enzo would help translate.  I played my banjo for them and fun was had by all.

Their son came in and we were introduced to Elia (named after the protector of Peschici).
Over the next 3 days we were invited into Maria's kitchen where Emma learned how to make fresh Limoncello, and we witnessed a great chef at work. We met their daughter, niece and her brand new bambino. We sat and talked for hours everyday, our last day we showed up early around 11am to bring them a plant and thank them all for a wonderful experience.  We sat again, talked, had a cafe, breakfast, another cafe, an amazing sea food lunch of fresh clams, octopus, squid, grilled fish and white wine. At 5pm in the afternoon we were filled with sadness as we left our new friends, Maria, Enzo and Elia, all waving us goodbye as we walked away and turned the corner of the beautiful cobblestoned streets of Peschici.

PASTA, PASTA, PASTA

February 13, 2014
Termoli, Italy

Upon visiting the town of Termoli Italy, my daughter and I enjoyed a beautiful sunny warm Spring day in February.  As it is off season the town was very quiet and most restaurants were closed.
We happened to wonder into a quaint Ristorante-Pizzeria called, LA SA CRESTIA. We were greeted by a lovely young lady who had a wonderful sense of humor, as much as we tried to communicate in English and French she tried to communicate in Italian.  We all laughed and eventually agreed on what to order.

We both ordered Linguine Alla Santa Lucia (fruit of the sea) which was an incredible dish, filled with fresh Linguine, full headed shrimp, mussels, clams, octopus and other sea delights I'm not sure of. Served in a savory butter herb sauce that was out of this world! Accompanied by two fresh red hot peppers on a plate with scissors to add as we pleased.

The main course was so amazing we decided to order dessert. Emma ordered lemon geloto and I ordered coconut geloto.  The lemon geloto arrived in large hollowed out lemon rhine with a delicate piece of chocolate placed in the middle.  Mine came in a hollowed out coconut shell with a dark rich piece of chocolate in the middle. I am a chocolate guy but decided to expand my taste buds. And believe me, I was beginning to expand! They both were amazing, If you're visiting Termoli I strongly recommend this restaurant!

PS.  As we were finishing our dessert a beautiful lady came out of the kitchen with a huge pot of steaming soup, then like scene out of an old black and white movie, the family sat down and with a large ladle, served what I'm sure was a delicious family recipe to all who were present..Hmmm I want some!  

Ciao

East to the Adriatic Sea

February 13, 2014

Emma and I left Rome with the help of GPS and headed across Italy towards the Adriatic Sea.
The journey was filled with excitement and anticipation as we really had no plan of where we were going or where we would spend the night.

As the day wore on we ventured into beautiful ancient villages where homes appeared to be built into the rock hillsides, surround by lush green rolling hills we could see farmers tending their sheep and border collies keeping them all together in what could be described as a well choreographed dance that has been going on since the beginning of time.

The rain set in late afternoon and as much as we looked we could not find a hotel or a place to spend the night.  As the day turned to night it rained so hard water was pouring over the rough roadway and to be honest I was getting a little nervous.  We managed to find our way into a town called, Manfredonia, where Emma spotted a hotel sign.  We pulled in and took the deal of 70.00 Euros that included breakfast.  When we awoke in the morning I opened the balcony door to be greeted with a spectacular, beautiful, warm sunny day as I watched the sunrise over the Adriatic Sea.  After the appetizing breakfast I picked up my banjo and played a soft tune for the sea gods!

http://youtu.be/fXEkFm3gYJ8 (Driving east)

Buona sera!

As we near our last days in Rome I have seen and learned so many new things.
I know now how to cross a busy street without getting killed. How, you may ask? Cross whenever you want, just walk and they stop, even the police.  Seattle jay walking rules to do not apply here.

The tourist maps suck and it's very easy to get turned around and around some more, bring a compass, thank you iPhone for a great app.

The fresh handmade pasta and Italian cuisine is like no other and needs to be experienced.

The city has so much beauty at every turn, hidden down small alleyways are the most picturesque cobblestoned streets with small family run restaurants, the sounds of neighbors and families dining and laughing together coming from the homes above.  That, along with amazing smells of food being prepared creates a colorful collage of a culture not lost but alive and well.

Remember, the banjo with the case weighs around 8.2 kilos, so I've had a hard time getting my mind around hauling it around Rome.  I'll try for some pictures in the next few days.

Ciao